A summary of my travels between Jan-Mar 2019

I have now completed five months or 21% of my travels. As with my previous trip summary, I will attempt to give you a flavour from the locations I have visited, rather than delve deeply into the details.

Bangkok (Thailand)

This is now my fifth time in Bangkok, if I'm honest, it's not one of my favourite cities in the world. However, for some strange reason, every time I come back, I get slightly more fond of this mega-city.......strange.

On this occasion, I got to experience the five star "banker" lifestyle as I had a friend visiting from London. We ended up in very nice hotels, restaurants and experienced the rooftop cocktail scene Bangkok is famous for. The only downside, prices were similar to London.

New Year's Eve was a similar experience to London, in that thousands of people lined the streets of the centre of Bangkok just like Trafalgar Square, with a huge firework display at midnight.

I also spent some time, looking at new apartment complexes which turned out to be an interesting comparison. A 60sqm apartment in the "Oxford Street" area of Bangkok was available for just under £400,000, with a more impressive 120sqm two bedroom apartment, available for £850,000.

I think one of the reasons that I enjoyed Bangkok more than on previous occasions, was because I was able to find areas that appealed to me from a photography point of view which I hadn't seen before.

A new experience, was to have a colema undertaken at a private hospital. I figured I needed my first flush after 50+ years of accumulation! I was most impressed with the service, quality of equipment and especially the price. Medical tourism has become a growing part of many a Westerner's travel arrangements. Combining a holiday with a procedure of some sort, is usually much cheaper than just the procedure alone in many Western countries with similar or better service levels.

Chiang Mai (Thailand)

I had planned to stay for around a month, as this was a potential location where I could probably live for part of the year after my travels end. I had read so many good online reports that I needed to absorb myself into the lifestyle.

I made a decision to stay in the old walled city and divided it into quadrants. I ended up staying in hostels in the North-west, South-west, North-east and finally South-east areas. I would spend my days walking around getting to know every street and nook and cranny.

Chiang Mai has a few really famous temples or "Wats" as they are known, with an estimated 300 others to choose from. wat

On my daily jaunts through the back streets, I would come across so many temples where I was the only person present. My advice is to just wonder around town freely and throw away the maps. Do not worry about visiting the famous temples which invariably will have hoards of tourists.

Another reason for visiting Chiang Mai was to attend The Digital Nomad Summit which brings together 400 people looking to take full control of their lives by working remotely at destinations of their choosing. This turned out helpfull in a number of ways including seeing the bigger picture of becoming a digital nomad.

A few days after the conference I felt a little unwell but didn't really think too much about it, until a fellow backpacker mentioned I may have dengue fever.

On looking into it more closely, I did indeed have some of the many possible symptoms; a high temperature, aching eyes, flu-like symptoms and a severe headache.

There is no treatment for dengue fever, you simply need to drink lots of fluids and monitor the situation. As this was my second occurrence, it is apparently a lot more serious and therefore you need to look out for a second set of symptoms which include bleeding when sneezing etc.

The only medication I was allowed to take according to my research was Panadol which helped with the severe headaches and gave some relief.

It is easy to see how people fall in love with Chiang Mai, it has a very easy going vibe, not too chaotic, a decent art scene, many independent coffee shops and a plethora of vegetarian restaurants to cater to every need.

Pai (Thailand)

This village is a 3hr drive north of Chiang Mai with 762 bends along the journey. Clearly this is a "proud" feature as many t-shirts are for sale with 762 in various designs, together with motion sickness tablets on route.

My first three nights were in a hostel in the centre so I didn't get to experience the "real" Pai. pai

A wooden shack in the middle of a field with cows, dogs, goats, chickens and geese would be my back drop for my remaining time. Opening my balcony doors every morning was always a thrilling moment.

Days were spent reading, writing and watching nature unfold before my eyes.....this was the real Pai.

Mandalay (Myanmar)

I start my Myanmar adventure in the north. At first glance this city of around a million people is very USA like with a grid street system and many large roads. On venturing down the side roads the "wild-west" takes over, with non existent traffic control or enforcement - strangely it works. Crossing these roads becomes interesting and after a while you begin to flow with the cars, vans and motorbikes rather than compete against them.

There is a clear disparity between the working/middle classes and the poor who are living on the streets along river banks and around the market areas. bone-buddha

It is far from unusual to see people washing themselves at street corners where open air washing facilities are provided. A cold water tap and a concrete wall acting as a bathroom screen of sorts.

I got talking to a retired gentleman who's daughter worked in the hospital I had just passed. He informed me that she is given free accommodation because of her job. He gave me a tour.....it was nothing more than a wooden shack to be shared among the three of them.....the tour was very brief.

A walk to the top of Mandalay Hill for sunset with its hundreds of steps is not for the faint hearted with the majority of visitors choosing to take a motorcycle taxi to the top.

Unfortunately, Mandalay Palace is probably not worth a visit as many of its historical artefacts are at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The British bombed the Palace and the surrounding area levelling everything apart from the Shwenandaw Monastery.

For the majority of people 2/3 days is more than enough to see the main sites. Most of my days were spent walking less trodden areas where local life is hectic and gritty which suits my photographic style and resulted in me staying for 6 days. I distinctly remember that for two consecutive days, I did not see another foreigner, clearly I was off the beaten path.

One of the largest meals I have ever been served was courtesy of the Minglabar restaurant. I ordered a main course & side dish. The waiter brought my food but continued to bring dish upon dish......8 plates in total of delicious local food.....a real feast. bridge

Visiting the famous U-Bein wooden 1.2km bridge was an experience.

Thousands of tourists like myself, wanting to capture the iconic photo of the bridge at sunset with no people walking across it. Sadly, I'm not sure it's still possible. I like many other keen amateur and professional photographers, were trying to find a unique angle or position. I think I may have captured an interesting photo or two from a completely different perspective......time will tell.

Bagan (Myanmar)

The leisurely boat trip from Mandalay down to Bagan was a really enjoyable experience seeing how people live in and around the river. Life mainly revolves around agriculture, with peanuts and reed weaving into hats and bags being the main sources of income.

Bagan is pretty spread out so it doesn't really matter if you stay in old or new Bagan or where the boat arrives in the north. You will hire an electric scooter to get you around the temples as it is the easiest way to see everything on your own terms.

A backpacker's life usually revolves around getting up really early to see sunrise at various temples. Being woken up by someone else's phone alarm annoyingly set 10 minutes before yours...and then someone else's and then another. In the early evening scooting around to find the best sunset temple, takes up the remainder of a backpacker's life. bagan

As there are over 2,000 temples to choose from, you can sometimes end up with your own bespoke sunset.

The red-brown hues from the bricks which make up the temples are truly a sight to see during the golden hours and are regarded as one of the wonders of the world. Some may conclude that the 20+ balloons that take to the sky would distract from the majestic view. I think it adds another layer to the tapestry unfolding before one's eyes. A unique experience that I would like to do on my return.

Inle Lake (Myanmar)

Travel options from Bagan to the lake are quite limited with most backpackers taking an overnight coach departing at 8 p.m., arriving at 4 a.m. The uncomfortable journey takes you through many twists and turns on the long bumpy road.

The Intha people live on raised wooden stilt houses around, and on the lake, in various villages. inle-lake

Their lives revolve around fishing, cigar making, wreath weaving and farming from their floating gardens.

Nyaungshwe is the main town for the area and where most people stay and boat trips depart. The day is spent on a narrowboat, weaving through the floating villages visiting craft shops, monasteries and temples. A break for lunch at a floating restaurant watching river life unfold, provides a break from the sunshine and an opportunity for a beer or two.

It's very easy to spend a few days at the lake going to a winery, hiring a bike and going on a cycle ride around the lake or just chilling out in the town having a beer and enjoying local food.

Venturing off into the dusty side streets and you begin to see how the majority of people live. Wooden raised houses often with some sort of business on the lower level to make a living. Despite the seemingly limited and simple life, everyone smiles, the old and the young.....clearly something is working here.

Hpa An (Myanmar)

One of the most serious coach journeys in my life so far......a mere 16 hour overnight and uncomfortable journey has me arriving at 7a.m.

The town is fairly large with an estimated 400,000 population but just walking around you wouldn't think it was so big with a few main roads. The many side roads are where you get to experience how the majority of local people live.

With a limited amount of time I decided to go on an organised tour of the main sites as the distances between them is considerable. Many backpackers choose to hire a moped but as my confidence level on motorcycles is low, the tour was the only realistic option.

What a great decision the 1 day tour ended up being. I was part of a great group of people from Germany, France and the UK, but most importantly the sites that we visited were all amazing.

Multiple caves & bamboo boat rides, a stunning sunset and to finish the night off we ended up outside a bat cave watching millions of bats leave for their nightly feast.

Yangon (Myanmar)

A daytime coach journey reveals the true beauty of the Myanmar countryside crossing multiple villages, rivers and towns with my arrival in the late afternoon.

My first impression of down-town Yangon is a city similar to Hong Kong a few decades ago. A gritty and bustling city. I decided to stay in this area which comprises of China town and is where many of the backpacker bars and restaurants are located. I think it's probably the most interesting part of town to visit, if merely stopping over for a few days.

The rebuilding of sewer systems next to street vendors selling fresh chicken, fish and vegetables creates quite a contrast. And yet, it just seems to work, all living in a chaotic harmony of sorts.

Various traders in tuk tuks, trucks and vans jostle for position to park the rear of their vehicle van

facing the pavement which allows them to trade on the street freely with the people walking past. Simultaneously, some take care of their small children in the back of the van, while with other families, the toddlers are given free rein to roam about and play games. At night, the same traders jostle for position with the cockroaches and rats while trying to feed the kids.

Staying on the east side, the roads are wider and buildings grander. The community seemingly more varied with temples, mosques and churches intertwined with a calmer chaos at street level compared to down-town.

In the Muslim quarter you have streets dedicated to different trades such as plumbing, Iighting, printing, food and textiles. It seems strange rubbing shoulders with your competitors, but as a consumer, I guess it works, as you only have to go to one road for a particular item allowing you to barter between shops to get a good price.

Slightly further north lies the famous Shwedagon Pagoda with thousands of daily worshippers. To the right you have a grand park with a huge central lake and some equally grand restaurants, one with a traditional dance show.

Luang Prabang (Laos)

My immediate first impression was that it's very similar to Chiang Mai, in Thailand. Easy to walk around and conducive to living an easy chilled out lifestyle. The central part has an abundance of restaurants, cafés and bars to keep most western tourists happy. Tie this together with it's UNESCO world heritage status and you have a truly special place.

The central tourist areas are extremely pretty. To see how the locals live, you need to wonder a bit further out where the open drains & sewage systems make a comeback. Clearly the town has invested funds to make the tourist areas amenable for foreigners, it works, but surely the wider community should benefit from closed drains too. With regards to nightlife, it's pretty limited to restaurants and a few bars with everything shutting down around 11 p.m. That is, apart from a place called the bowling alley which is underneath a police station on the outskirts of town and has flexible closing and licencing hours!

My initial plan was stay for 6 days, but as I had fallen in love with the town, I extended my stay to nearly 2 weeks. This is definitely a place that I will come and stay for long periods of time just like Chiang Mai in Thailand, especially with its beautiful waterfall.

A casual late afternoon walk along the riverfront of the Mekong River turns into a chess battle over many days with Andrew, a Swiss native, but living in Mexico. He asks me, if I play chess as I walk by. It turns out, his usual partner couldn't make it. A random event turns into a serious chess lesson for me. I knew I was in trouble during our first game. After completing my first two opening moves, Andrew knew the name of my opening which I wasn't aware of. A 6-1 thrashing ensued over the coming days!

Vang Vieng (Laos)

One of the reasons I stayed in Luang Prabang longer than anticipated was because I was told by fellow backpackers that Vang Vieng was a party town. This is true, but not really as crazy as one would imagine. Having seen crazy myself in Majorca and other notorious places, I would class Vang Vieng as a 4 out of 10.

The Nam Song river with the mountains as backdrop is where many of the outdoor activities are based. The river carves it's way through town with hotels, restaurants and bars lining its banks.

Main activities include "tubing" on the river (in a rubber doughnut ring), infused with alcohol stops at bars along the way. This resulted in some fatalities many years ago and is now a more controlled and sober activity.

I opted for a full day tour which included: trekking, caving, tubing, kayaking and swimming in a lagoon with zip-lining also available. tubing

On our way to the tubing site, I asked our tour guide what the concrete elevated sections were that I had spotted on route.

He informed me, that the Chinese were building a railway funded and built by themselves. This was done free of charge, with the condition that the they own 100 feet either side of the railway track. Local people were compensated for any disruption or when relocation was required.

There seemed to be mixed feelings regarding the railway. Some locals saying it was a good thing for the economy and others viewing it as a modern form of colonization without armies, weapons and bloodshed, but with money instead, only time will tell.

Vientiane (Laos)

The journey down to Vientiane, even in a large coach, was a bumpy ride as parts of the road were just a dirt track and still being resurfaced. The coach passed many large rolling machines and other heavy machinery less than a few feet away with no safety barriers.......or reduced speed limits!

I wasn't sure what to expect with this town. My expectations were to see beautiful architecture in abundance, yet the only really spectacular buildings belonged to countries in the form of embassies and so were not accessible to the public.

On walking around the large night market down towards the river, there is a huge selection of cheap products available but strangely hardly any street food options. Street food is available in abundance from the Ban Anou Night Market. Home-made local Laos dishes from old ladies are genuine, tasty and varied. Roasted meets of all types seem to be a speciality, with my personal preference, a half roast duck for under £3.

I went with a fellow backpacker on a couple of excursions by local bus as the tuk tuks were extortionate. The first to the new national museum, turned out to not yet be completed, museum

clearly a case where local knowledge would have beaten Google!

The museum was empty, apart from some workmen completing a wooden wall carving and others laying floor tiles. Strangely, we were allowed to enter and freely walk around. The second excursion to The Buddha Park was somewhat more successful. Taking the number 14 bus for a mere 80p for a 28km/45min journey. The park is small and easily gone through in an hour. chicken-bus

It was built in 1958 and has Buddhist and Hindu sculptures set inside a pretty garden.The return journey was interesting, in that a woman boarded with a couple of large bags. We began to hear strange sounds, it soon became clear that she had just purchased a rooster and two hens. We've all heard stories of buses with animals on in South America, well at last, I have my own "chicken bus" story.

HOMEPAGE