A summary of my travels between Jan-Mar 2020
A new year and decade begins with a new continent 'The Americas' as I continue my round the world trip. I start this part of my journey in Buenos Aires, Argentina. I will be travelling much more slowly compared to the South East Asia part of my trip, more akin to living than travelling. I will be staying in each location for at least one week rather than moving every few days therefore visiting far fewer destinations. Here is a taste of my time in Argentina, Brazil and part of Mexico.Buenos Aires (Argentina)
l knew I had arrived in a deeply religious country when half the passengers on the airplane broke out with a round of applause on landing, I had experienced this on many flights to and from Italy in the past.
Taking the bus towards the city centre, I immediately felt at home somehow, I suspect it's because I'm familiar with big cities and feel comfortable in them and BA is not that different to Europe when compared to South East Asia.
Buenos Aires is known as the Paris of The Americas as it was once, one of the wealthiest cities in the world. Many of its buildings and wide roads took inspiration from Paris. It's a beautiful, if somewhat past its prime kind of city. The various neighbourhoods all offer something different as you would expect in any big city.
Transportation:
The cheapest way to get around Buenos Aires is by using the bus or tube which uses a top-up card known as the Sube with single journeys only costing 30p. The buses tend to be old Mercedes gas guzzling relics from the 80s but function well with routes not restricted to the main roads as in other big cities. Official taxis are also very cheap with most journeys only costing a few pounds.
Money and ATMs:
Unfortunately Argentina is going through another round of economic uncertainty with consumer prices rising 53.8% in 2019.
In the month I spent in BA , I witnessed this for myself with my local coffee shop raising prices by 5.4% and this was not an isolated incident as other backpackers told me the same. I can only imagine what it is like to live with prices rising this quickly. I'm sure pensioners don't have raises to match, which makes me wonder, how on earth do they manage to survive year after year?
Because of the huge inflation rate, there is a demand for foreign currencies as a way to somewhat offset the huge rise in prices every year. Where there is demand, the market, or more accurately, the black market, has come up with a solution.
Walk along the main Florida Street in the centre of town and you will be confronted with scores of people shouting the word 'Cambio' meaning 'Change'. Should you choose to use one of these money changes you will be led to a small makeshift office where you will be told their exchange rate. This is often up to 20-25% better than you will get from an ATM or bank.
A note of caution, be aware of your circumstances, if you sit down, they may try to steal from your backpack. Be especially aware of the notes being given to you and make sure that you touch and leaf through every single one as sometimes they may be trying to dispose of torn or bad condition notes. Never hand over your cash until you are happy with everything. ATM machines charge huge withdrawal fees, usually over 10% of the amount and have very low limits of under £65. This is another reason many tourists bring in foreign cash with a preference for US Dollars.
A far safer option is to use Western Union which seems to match the exchange rate offered by the street vendors. I don't normally recommend this company as their fees in other countries are extortionate. In Argentina however, they clearly want US dollars. A fellow backpacker, simply downloaded the app to her smartphone and transferred funds from her bank account and then went to a Western Union shop to collect her cash.
Safety:
Despite never feeling uncomfortable or under threat, it is prudent to take certain precautions. You will see most Argentinian women placing their bag or backpack in front of them. It is also best not to walk around with your smartphone out in the open for too long.
While walking around the Boca neighbourhood I drifted off one of the main roads and was warned by a woman walking with her children to turn around which I did. In the more upmarket Recolecta neighbourhood, another lady warned me to put my smartphone away, clearly there was a problem with crime.
In the preceding weeks, a couple of tourists had been stabbed with one fatality. If confronted by someone, the best advice is to not argue and simply comply with their demands. Any smartphone or money you may have on you is simply not worth your life or a visit to the hospital to take care of wounds.
Street Art:
Murals and graffiti are so common that they are considered an everyday occurrence and have become part of the urban landscape.
In fact, many building owners encourage and even pay artists to spray paint their walls.
Culture:
Tango is huge here and one of the main tourist attractions. You can either go to watch a show which often includes a meal for between £30-50. Alternatively, you can simply watch the many street performers around the city, especially during market days on Sundays which are free or cheap by simply leaving a tip.
Going to tango classes is another way to immerse yourself in the culture and begin to understand why it's so important.
Theatres are a big deal, in fact the city boasts it has the largest number in any city in the world. The impressive Theatro Colon dominates one of the central squares. When I checked prices for performances, the best Stalls seats were £23, a fraction of London West End theatres at between £180-230.
Bookshops are also known to be particularly abundant in this city with one of the most beautiful in the world being the El Ateneo Grand Splendid which is housed in a former theatre.
Food:
Food is very robust in Argentina, with meat taking centre stage, especially the barbequed variety. Having eaten my fair share of steaks, I have learned to ask for it rarer than wanted as they tend to over cook them.
If wanting a medium cooked steak, ask for medium rare, ask for a rare one and you may just about get it medium rare....shame as the quality and price is amazing. A large fillet minion with a side dish can be had for around £12.
For lunch, do what many office workers do and head to small buffet restaurants where you can eat a decent lunch for between £1-2. Many if not most have a clear out at 3pm where you can buy the same food for one quarter of the price. I used this to great effect to bring back food to my hostel for the evening or lunch the next day, this was a lot cheaper then going out to buy the individual ingredients and cooking the food myself in the hostel kitchen.
Argentinian’s are very family orientated with friends almost having an equal importance. Dinner often doesn't start until 10pm. If you are inclined to eat like most westerners around 6-8pm, you will find most restaurants empty. This also applies to many bars that have their happy hours often between 5-9pm which I took advantage of at a craft beer house on more than occasion!
San Thelmo:
This was the first area I stayed in for my month in Buenos Aires, it feels much like Camden Town in London with trendy shops and brick-a-brac for sale everywhere.
There's a very old market at its heart with a good selection of cafes and casual dining making it a great place for breakfast or lunch.
Puerto Maduro:
This area is very similar to the Thames in London with converted warehouses turned into apartments and restaurants.
It's pleasant for a walk either early in the morning or evening when the sun is less strong. Many bars have happy hours and there's a good selection of buffet style restaurants which I attended on more than one occasion for the sheer value and quality. It's hard to say no to bottles of wine going for £3-6 at the cheaper end of the menu and a total cost never exceeding £18.
Recoletta:
I wouldn't bother staying in the Retiro neighbourhood which is not too far from Recoletta. This is pretty much a retiree area where the rich live and the shops and restaurants tend to be on the expensive side. Recoletta is the upmarket part town with beautiful buildings highlighting the city's "Paris of the West" moniker which it truly deserves.
Palermo Soho:
This part of town is one of the main restaurant and bar areas and where you have chic small independent shops mainly geared towards women. It's a very easy part of town to live in and is comparable to Hampstead in London.
Plentiful artisanal markets, independent galleries and small neighbourhood parks are scattered throughout the area. One of the centres for casual dining and sipping cocktails or beers is around The Plaza Cortázar, where there is a great selection of craft beer establishments.
Puerto Iguazu (Argentina)
I was not looking forward to my 18 hour bus journey north to see the famous Iguazu waterfalls. The journey started at 7pm and I didn't arrive until 1pm the following day. The coach was luxurious with a toilet and video screens and so quite easy to watch a few movies as they were in English with Spanish subtitles. I managed got some rest to wake up the next morning with only another 6 hours left to run before arriving. The roads were very smooth and the bus drivers are regulated to a maximum speed of 60mph compared to the wild west that is Southeast Asia, making it a very calm experience. My first impression on arrival was of a frontier town with foreign cars coming over to stock up on oil.....olive oil which seems extremely good value at £1 for a 5 litre bottle. A pretty unique experience was walking to The Three Borders Landmark, where the rivers from Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina meet, with each border a mere few hundred metres apart.
The main reason for coming here was to see the amazing Iguazu Waterfalls which is a 30 minute bus ride just outside of town at another UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are multiple paths – Superior (Upper Circuit) and Inferior (Lower Circuit) and a few smaller ones taking around 3-4 hours in total. You get very close to the water and if you want, you can get really wet at the top of the Superior path or by taking an organized boat ride.
Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil)
The Brazilian side of the waterfalls has a much larger town, again located a 30 minute bus ride away.
The falls are equally impressive but in a different way, as the perspective is further away apart from right at the end when you get up close and personal with the water. There is essentially just one walking trail which can be completed in about 2 hours.
Florianopolis (Brazil)
Another 15 hour overnight sleeper coach journey brings me to this coastal city. I stay in the downtown area with its cobblestone roads and historic market. Apart from the usual selection of restaurants, bars and shops, there really isn't much to do.
Fresh fish is abundant with oysters a speciality of the region. On the opposite side of downtown you have an upmarket zone with apartments overlooking an inlet of the sea and the mainland. The island is huge with 42 separate beaches and is best explored by a coach tour or hiring your own car. Because of the abundance of beaches it has become a popular holiday spot.
São Paulo (Brazil)
The sprawling metropolis that is São Paulo is the most populous city in Brazil and all of South America with around 12 million people. Historically, the city and country grew rich in the coffee trade, presently it is financial services. I chose to stay in the downtown area near the Republica Metro Station and went immediately out on arrival, but was told to be careful. I couldn't believe my eyes, there were hundreds of homeless people outside the main Cathedral.
Many were waiting for free haircuts in the main square and graffiti covered many walls and even whole buildings in the surrounding area. I must admit, I felt a little uneasy. Strangely, it looks like it must be an up-and-coming area as new apartments are being built, together with new restaurants, artisan bread shops and trendy coffee houses popping up everywhere.
I then moved to stay in the Vila Madelena area which is an upmarket neighbourhood with much in common with Hampstead & Highgate in London. An area with lots of hills and a great selection of bars and restaurants. It goes without saying that the area was much easier to live in.
I spent my days visiting the municipal market which is a site to behold and also the famous Cathedral and various museums. I particularly enjoyed The IMS Museum which is dedicated to photography and has one of largest libraries concerning photography I have ever seen in my life, many an hour was spent here.
Rio De Janiero (Brazil)
When I began planning my round the world trip, I kept recalling Roger Moore as James Bond at The Rio Carnival and so was keen to visit. Head over to my carnival tips article covering my time at the carnival in more detail. The Carnival is split into two different parts. The official parade and blocos. The blocos are street parties and take place all around the city over the 5 official days and before....simply follow your ears to find one.
I stayed in the downtown area known as Lapa which is one of the main party areas of Rio,
where it's relatively easy to party 24 hours around the clock. At the same time, it is also a poor area so you should keep your eyes peeled.
Rio is also known for its famous beaches, namely Copacabana and Ipanema. Ipanema seems to be the busier of the two, with a much younger and trendy crowd. Copacabana seems to be slightly quieter and for families.
What is more perfect than walking down both Ipanema and Copacabana beaches and having vendors walking up to you 
with trays of ice-cold Caipirinhas for under £2 a pop, heaven......cheers everyone and happy Carnaval!
Go easy on the Caipirinhas (the national drink) as they are very sweet and easy to drink, but pack a punch later on!
I would suggest, as recommended to me, to use Bradesco Bank for money ATM withdrawals. They do charge around £4 per withdrawal, but compared to other banks, they don't confuse you with wording I hadn't seen before which ended up costing me around £14 for one particular transaction with another bank.
For cheap and healthy food, head to restaurants known as “comida por kilo”, food by the kilo. 
The food is tasty and is Brazil’s answer to fast food where many office workers in particular choose to have lunch. The selection will include salad items, hot traditional dishes as well as desert. For under £5 you can get a very decent meal.
Mexico City (Mexico)
Mexico City wasn't my original destination as I turned up at Rio airport to catch my flight to Bogota, Colombia. I was refused boarding as I didn't have my Yellow Fever certificate, this catches out around 10-20 people every day. The guy at the check-in desk suggested I could either get a waiver certificate from a hospital or a booster shot. After spending an extra three days in Rio deciding what to do. I made the decision to switch my itinerary around and head to Mexico instead, which was a part of my future itinerary anyway. I would suggest staying in the central downtown and historical centre of Mexico City at least initially. This makes it easy to walk and see pretty much all the historical buildings of note as well as the street markets and shops. Having said this, getting around is very easy using the Metro system which costs only 20p per single Journey for whatever distance. The city has a reputation for crime but I did not witness anything of the sort and felt very comfortable walking around at all times of the day and night, even in some of the sketchier areas. Take the usual precautions of keeping your money and phone in your front rather than back pockets etc. and you should be fine.
Street food in Mexico City is legendary with lots of taco stands offering different types of meats and sauces at ridiculously low prices.
You can pretty much fill yourself up for £1. On the rare occasion you find a fish taco stall, then you really are about to have a happy day.
The Condesa and Roma neighbourhoods are the posh residential areas with a large number of restaurants and bars. The quality and diversity of the food tends to be more international and therefore pricier.
I was extremely fortunate to bump into two separate friends while in the city and so managed to spend time hanging out going to see the famous ruins just outside the city and a fair share of dinners & beers.....thanks to Max and Will.
I was in the city during International Women's Day. It is taken very seriously with hundreds of thousands marching and protesting. As always, there is a small element that resort to damaging and defacing statues with graffiti and smashing shop windows. I went out with my camera with the intention of capturing a few shots but somehow ended up at the wrong location! I managed to get 1 photo which I feel represents the day. I found out the next day that they do not allow male photographers at the event anyway!
Morelia (Mexico)
This city doesn't feature on most people's itinerary which is a shame as there are a few notable things to see. The Morelia Cathedral is the centrepiece of the city and one of the most beautiful in the whole of Mexico that shimmers different shades of pink to red at sunset. An aqueduct that stretches for nearly 2km just south of the centre is another landmark.
I was particularly spoilt during my time in Morelia as I had a whole hostel to myself in the center of town. It was in a beautifully historic building right next door to one of the small wonders of world hotels which charge £200pn compared to my £7.50pn.....I ended up staying 6 nights in this beautifully historic city and simply chilling and going out for walks.
San Miguel De Allende (Mexico)
This is another UNESCO World Heritage site and it's easy to see why. Beautiful cobblestone streets with beautifully preserved colorful buildings, catherderals and main squares make for a very pleasant and peaceful way to spend a few days simply walking around, catching a coffee or margarita and watching the sun come down across town.
It is considered one of the most beautiful cities in Mexico and attracts its fair share of tourists and ex-pat residents especially from the US. Perched 6,000 feet above sea level and with many hills you have to catch your breath occasionally when walking around. It is such a well preserved city that attention is given to
the signs businesses can use, they are very discrete. Strangely that can't be said for its famous street art.
Guanajuato (Mexico)
Guanajuato is located about 6 hours north of Mexico City and only 2 hours from San Miguel De Allende. It has a reputation for being the most beautiful city in the whole of Mexico with homeowners using bright paints to adhourn their homes. Cobblestone streets all set in a mountain setting definitely help create its reputation.
Whereas many other Mexican cities adhere to the US grid system for their streets, Guanajuato has had a more haphazard feel to its growth which I believe leads to its charm. Unfortunately during my visit the Covid19 virus had meant most of the restaurants and bars were closed so I never got to experience the liveliness of this university city.
I had a whole hostel all to myself as tourism was non existent, so in a sense I was self isolating. I only saw one other westerner during my stay. This concludes my first experiences of travelling while the virus spreads, tune into my next summary to find out more.
HOMEPAGE
Get in touch
If you have any comments, questions or just want to say hello.....let's chat
